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  HISTORY

Prehistory

The earliest signs of life can be found in fossil beds such as those by the largest lime-kiln, indicating that this area was once under the sea. Since then Bewcastle has baked in the desert heat and frozen under a polar ice cap. It has been torn apart by earth-quakes and split by volcanic lava. Only in recent times has man appeared to add his mark. That there were settlements in pre-historic times is beyond doubt. Stone tools have been found on the fell, and bronze-age hut circles can be seen to the east of the castle. While the fells seem inhospitable in modern times, they would once have been covered in woodland, providing fuel and shelter for small farming communities.

Silver plaque dedicated to Cocidius, BewcastleRomans

Certainly not the first invaders to colonise Britain, their influence was greater. Most think of Roman Britain as extending only as far as Hadrian's Wall, but there were a number of forts and camps built north of that line, presumably to gather information about the enemy. The first turf and timber fort was built at the time of the great wall, and judging from the silver plaque found on site and dedicated to the local deity Cocidius, was probably named Fanum Cocidii.

The remains we see today are from the stone fort built in the third century, and garrisoned by an auxiliary unit of 1000 strong.  It is unusual in having six sides, rather than the more usual rectangle or square. The fort was twice destroyed, once in AD 343 when Hadrian's Wall was overrun, and again in AD 367, when it was laid waste. and abandoned. The site is still impressive, with it's mighty embankments and ditches skirting the modern road.

Interlace on Bewcastle CrossAnglians & Saxons

We call this period the dark ages largely because we are in the dark as to what happened! The surviving shaft from a cross is probably 7th century, and possibly dedicated to Alcfrith, son of Oswiu of Northumberland who ruled from 641-670. At least that's what we think. All we know for certain is that it is the finest Ango-Saxon cross in existence, and without parallel in Europe.

Normans

Following the battle of Hastings, loyal knights of William were rewarded with estates. It is thought that the castle was founded around 1092. Local legend has it that the castle was named after a local lord called Beuth. This is countered by those who are quite adamant the name is a corruption of bothy (temporary building) and caster (roman fort). The truth is that we don't know for certain. Certainly the locals never refer to it as Bewcastle Castle.

While the earliest construction would have been from wood, there was plenty of building materials from the old roman fort, and in the 13th century a stone construction was begun.  This outer wall enclosed inner wooden buildings, though in the 15th century, it had begun to decay. 

The sacking of Bewcastle by the Grahams in 1583Granted to Richard, Duke of Gloucester (later Ling Richard III), who became Warden of the West March, repairs were made. This was a lawless period for the borders, and castles such as this and the nearby Askerton and Naworth would have been sanctuary for the locals during large raids by the Scottish. The 16th century saw tenancy by the Musgraves, who defended it against their sworn enemies, the Grahams and Armstrongs.  By the beginning of the 17th century, lack of maintenance had led to a partial ruin. Though the Earl of Cumberland's men held the castle briefly in 1639, they did much damage when they left. It is said that the final wasting was done by Parliamentary batteries during the civil war.

A leaflet about the castle can be obtained from Demesne Farm.

Reivers

The border was always difficult to control, with thieves and rustlers raiding across the border with Scotland. Feuds were between different families, and sometimes even between English and Scottish branches of the same family. While the local sheriffs tried to maintain law and order, they were often a party to the crimes. Farms were of necessity fortified against attack; the smaller buildings were known as Pele towers, the larger ones such as Askerton being called Bastles. Cattle were stolen, homes looted and their occupants murdered or raped. Those were the days of the Armstrongs, Elliots, Musgraves, Nobles and Nixons. They are still here now, but much more peaceful and hospitable. For more information, read George MacDonald Fraser's 'The Steel Bonnets,' or visit the Tullie House museum in Carlisle.

Banks limekiln, BewcastleRecent Times

By the 19th century, law and order were returning to the area, and fields were ploughed for oats and barley. Lime was produced in kilns, both to improve the soil, and for sale outside the area, and a number of these can still be seen, like the Banks limekiln & quarry above. Coal was mined locally to fuel these, though the yields were never high. 
A number of schools were built, and there were certainly many pubs, most sadly gone. The present bridge by the castle was constructed in 1905. There had always been a ford there, by the blacksmith's shop, hence the name Shopford. Farming received a boost during the second world war, when the urgency for food production brought Land Army volunteers into the area.

Nowadays Bewcastle relies on sheep and cattle farming, peat digging, forestry and tourism, though there are a number of small, hi-tech businesses benefiting from a pleasant working environment.

RAF Spadeadam

On the edge of Bewcastle Fell is the largest RAF station in England. Though you won't see it behind its screen of trees, you will certainly hear its visitors! Formerly home to Britain's rocket research project, it is now the RAF's electronic warfare range. Though the number of flying days is limited, you may be lucky enough to see some spectacular low-level flying by NATO planes (and we mean LOW!). The sheep are a bit nonchalant about it, but for flying enthusiasts, this is a free air show.

Bewcastle Heritage Society meet regularly "to capture and preserve some of the history and culture of the parish before it is lost."